P2111: Throttle Actuator A Control System - Stuck Open
What Does P2111 Mean?
P2111 is a diagnostic trouble code indicating: Throttle Actuator A Control System - Stuck Open. This code relates to the powertrain system. It has been reported in NHTSA complaints across 11 different vehicle models.
Symptoms of P2111
- ⚠️ Check engine light illuminated
- ⚠️ Engine stalling or dying
- ⚠️ Rough or unstable idle
- ⚠️ Hesitation during acceleration
- ⚠️ Poor fuel economy
- ⚠️ Engine misfires
Common Causes
- 🔍 Clogged or leaking fuel injector
- 🔍 Throttle body or throttle position sensor issue
- 🔍 Dirty or failed MAF sensor
- 🔍 Stuck or failed EGR valve
- 🔍 Wiring or connector problem
- 🔍 EVAP system component failure
P2111 Reports by Year
Real Owner Reports
From NHTSA complaint database — actual owner descriptions.
"I HAVE A 2005 F-150 SUPERCREW. OVER THE LAST SEVERAL MONTHS - APPROXIMATELY 70K MILES ON TRUCK AT THE TIME - THE VEHICLE GOES INTO A "FAIL SAFE" MODE WITH THE CODES P2111 AND P2104. THE ACCELERATOR STOPS WORKING AND YOU HAVE TO COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND TURN THE CAR OFF. THE ORANGE WRENCH LI"
— Ford F-150 owner, 12/01/2009
"I WAS DRIVING TO WORK WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN A YELLOW WRENCH LIGHT CAME ON, MY CAR SHUT DOWN, AND I HAD TO COAST ACROSS 3 LANES OF HIGHWAY TRAFFIC TO STOP ON THE SHOULDER. IT WOULDN'T START AT FIRST, THEN I TRIED AGAIN AND IT STARTED AND DROVE THE REST OF THE WAY JUST FINE. I HAVE READ HUNDREDS OF CO"
— Ford Escape owner, 08/07/2017
"VEHICLE STALLED AND WENT INTO "LIMP-HOME" MODE AFTER ACCELERATING FROM A STOPPED CONDITION.("LIMP-HOME" MODE IS A MODE PROGRAMMED BY FORD ENGINEERS TO ONLY ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO MOVE FORWARD UNDER LIMITED POWER, GENERALLY ONLY 1-2 MPH.) I LATER FOUND OUT THAT THIS WAS DUE TO A FAULTY ELECTRONIC THRO"
— Ford Escape owner, 07/01/2015
Source: NHTSA Complaints Database
Most Reported Vehicles for P2111
Based on NHTSA owner complaint data.
| # | Vehicle | Reports |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | FORD FUSION | |
| 2 | FORD ESCAPE | |
| 3 | FORD MUSTANG | |
| 4 | FORD EDGE | |
| 5 | FORD EXPLORER | |
| 6 | FORD FOCUS | |
| 7 | FORD EXPEDITION | |
| 8 | FORD F-150 | |
| 9 | FORD TAURUS | |
| 10 | KIA SORENTO | |
| 11 | JEEP COMPASS |
P2111 Reports by Vehicle
Detailed NHTSA complaint analysis for each vehicle model.
Diagnostic Tips
- Scan all modules, save freeze-frame data, and clear unrelated history codes before focusing on P2111.
- Confirm whether companion codes are present first; they often identify the root cause sooner than the headline DTC.
- Prioritize inspection around engine and the most common failure path for this code family.
- Check APP/TPS correlation PIDs through slow pedal sweeps; look for dropouts, lag, or disagreement between paired sensors.
- After each repair step, complete one drive cycle and verify readiness monitors instead of judging success after a quick idle test.
- If the code keeps returning on high-incidence platforms (for example FORD FUSION), check TSB patterns and wiring/connector fitment before major part replacement.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- ❌ Skipping freeze-frame review and losing the exact RPM/load conditions when the fault set.
- ❌ Replacing the throttle body without checking APP sensor correlation and connector pin tension.
- ❌ Clearing P2111 and returning the car before monitors complete — this often creates repeat visits.
- ❌ Treating intermittent wiring or connector faults as permanent component failure without wiggle testing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I drive with this code?
Will this code clear itself?
How do I find the exact cause?
Reported Repair Costs for P2111
Based on 16 owner-reported repair costs from NHTSA complaints.
⚠️ These are owner-reported costs, not estimates. Actual costs vary by location, labor rates, and root cause. Source: NHTSA complaints database.
What To Do Next
Possible Fixes
- 🔧 Have the code scanned with a professional-grade scanner to read freeze frame data
- 🔧 Check and tighten the gas cap — replace if cracked or damaged ($5-15)
- 🔧 Test the relevant sensor(s) with a multimeter before replacing
- 🔧 Inspect wiring harness and connectors for damage, corrosion, or loose connections
- 🔧 If DIY repair isn't feasible, get a diagnostic from a trusted mechanic ($50-150)
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1
Find your vehicle above
Click your make and model for real owner reports and common causes specific to your vehicle.
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2
Check for recalls
Go to nhtsa.gov/recalls and enter your VIN. Free repairs if covered.
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Get a professional diagnosis
A code alone doesn't identify the exact failed part. A diagnostic ($50–$150) pinpoints the root cause.