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P2004: Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1

Severity
Warning
NHTSA Reports
15
Vehicles Affected
10
System
Powertrain

What Does P2004 Mean?

P2004 is a diagnostic trouble code indicating: Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1. This code relates to the powertrain system. It has been reported in NHTSA complaints across 10 different vehicle models.

Symptoms of P2004

Common Causes

P2004 Reports by Year

2025
3
2023
2
2013
2
2018
1
2020
1

Real Owner Reports

From NHTSA complaint database β€” actual owner descriptions.

"I need to preface this by stating I fundamentally don’t understand how an issue that directly results in the failure of inspection which dictates road safety/emissions quality and was identified by two mechanics as a part known to fail cannot be under a recall. The part addressed is #14001-3TA1E bu"

β€” Nissan Altima owner, 06/05/2025

"WHEN DRIVING UP A HILL MY ENGINE WOULD ESSENTIALLY VAPOR LOCK AND I COULDN'T GO PAST 45 TO 50 MPH. I WOULD BE FLOORING THE GAS PEDAL AND MY CAR WOULD BE GOING 45 TO 50 MPH UP A HILL. I TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC AND FOUND IT TO BE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CODE P2004. THAT PART COMES WITH A NEW INTAK"

β€” Nissan Rogue owner, 08/16/2018

"The warnings shown in the attached picture came on for no reason all at once then after a restart of the engine, they all disappeared except the check engine light. OBDII code reader shows the code P2004, but after clearing the code with the OBDII tool, the check engine light doesn't come back, whic"

β€” Nissan Rogue owner, 09/02/2023

Source: NHTSA Complaints Database

Most Reported Vehicles for P2004

Based on NHTSA owner complaint data.

P2004 Reports by Vehicle

Detailed NHTSA complaint analysis for each vehicle model.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I drive with this code?
It depends on the severity. If the vehicle runs normally, short trips are usually OK. If you notice performance issues, drivability problems, or warning lights beyond the check engine light, get it checked soon.
Will this code clear itself?
Some codes clear automatically after the underlying issue is fixed and several drive cycles pass. But the root cause must be addressed first.
How do I find the exact cause?
A code alone doesn't pinpoint the failed part. You need a diagnostic scan ($50-150 at most shops) that reads freeze frame data and live sensor readings to identify the specific component.

What To Do Next

Possible Fixes

  • πŸ”§ Have the code scanned with a professional-grade scanner to read freeze frame data
  • πŸ”§ Check and tighten the gas cap β€” replace if cracked or damaged ($5-15)
  • πŸ”§ Test the relevant sensor(s) with a multimeter before replacing
  • πŸ”§ If DIY repair isn't feasible, get a diagnostic from a trusted mechanic ($50-150)
  1. 1
    Find your vehicle above

    Click your make and model for real owner reports and common causes specific to your vehicle.

  2. 2
    Check for recalls

    Go to nhtsa.gov/recalls and enter your VIN. Free repairs if covered.

  3. 3
    Get a professional diagnosis

    A code alone doesn't identify the exact failed part. A diagnostic ($50–$150) pinpoints the root cause.

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